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logolargeslim BL header

flash me.

um. this topic is hard for me. not bc i dont know how to use it, but because, really, its not as hard as anyone wants to make it.

and if its supposed to be harder - dont tell me. bc, well, im doing fine my way ;) haha

you should probably remember, for many indoor scenarios, i like flat lighting. i am not a fan of many shadows for my studio stuff. so. yeah. my CC on so many studio set ups is the shadows - i dont *always* like them. so if thats your style, then you may have to adjust this tut for you.

here's what i mean by flat lighting --
leighton 14mo-15 copy


see how there arent harsh shadows on her face? just an even *brightness* to the photo overall? thats how i, personally, define flat. consistent.

i always bounce. or at least just toss it behind me. i dont care that often about color casts because i shoot RAW and i''ll fix it later.

i also would rather use a SL then up my ISO and get grain. so there's that, too.

i do not drag my shutter. its not my style.

this tutorial is also not about fill flash.

so.

i mainly use it for extra light. to make the room look as if there's some sort of lighting there that is not.

lets say im at a house shooting a newborn - and there arent windows or light for me to use to my advantage.

so here's how the SL works. turn it on.

mode - M
hold down the (sel/set) button til your numbers are blinking. then play.

itll start at 1/1. thatll be super bright. maybe start test shots at 1/8 or something.

in my opinion, the idea is to set your settings how you want them and then adjust the SL.


*oh and dont forget that the meter on your camera is basically useless when a SL is on ;) also, your SL will have a sync speed with your camera's shutter speed. so you may not be able to go "faster" than 1/200. and youll have to adjust the SL's power, instead.*


so, for the pic below, i was at 1/32 + 0.3 on the SL. so you just need to start moving the arrow down to see what you need. test shoot. whatever. but you want just enough light to make it editable - without leaving flash spots.

i had already set settings for this where i was comfortable. i metered and still needed to use the SL so i just had to play.
bed all1
it still has some depth, isnt totally "flat" but still gave me the lighting i need without the other problems.

i'll say the hardest part of using a SL is when youre shoot in portrait. horizontal is easy bc it just bounces behind you. but in portrait, you have to turn the SL so its still bouncing where you want it to. this can be useful if you want to MAKE shadows, but on seamless, it can be super hard.

like on this one, you can see that my SL is still the same position it would have been in landscape and that i just turned my camera to the left - bc the left side of her face is brighter. but it works out nicely and gives a bit of a natural light look.

new seamless paper11


some places in your home may REQUIRE a SL for good photos during the evening/night. or maybe your house is really dark? not all cameras have the ISO capability to not bring grain, not all lenses have a low enough f/stop, and not all kids are slow enough to use a slow SS. so, a SL can help.

couch relaxing SB


sometimes, even when you have the gear, you still need a SL indoors bc of your house... at night, my living room is *ugh* to shoot in. but that doesnt mean i want to miss a moment ;)

i have a bajillion examples if you'd like to see more SL v non-SL. :) just let me know

8 comments:

Anonymous said...

I for one would love to see more examples- thanks for sharing your know-how!

aidkaid19 said...

Ok!! I'll do that asap! I gotta go through and remember which have it lol

Studio? Newborn? Candid? All? :)

Anonymous said...

Whenever I shoot with my SL, the colors comes out quite yellow. Do you do something to your wb? How do you get such a natural light look with a SL in your home when it's not daylight out?

aidkaid19 said...

i choose the best WB for the setting - and i also shoot in RAW. so editing WB in post processing is super easy.

a lot of people may do custom WB, as well. and use a gray card.

Jen O. said...

Question: if you're shooting your subject in front of a backdrop, with the flash bouncing behind you, how do you prevent shadows? I've tried pulling my subject as far from the paper as possible, but I still end up having to clone on the shadow later. Bouncing off the ceiling led to harsher shadows on the face. Do you use a reflector or umbrella?

aidkaid19 said...

question - are you shooting in portrait (holding camera up and down) or landscape (holding camera "normal") - that is usually the difference. if i shoot in landscape and my flash bounces behind me, then i usually get really flat lighting. but up and down, shadows. bc the flash has to be positioned oh, so, correctly to nix that. OR, like you said, have another source of bounce.

also, different paper is my friend. for instance, thunder grey can give horrible shadows, where as some lighter colors do not at all.

Jen O. said...

Both. I bounced my flash off the ceiling though, instead of behind me. I was using sea green, so it still had some shadowing but not nearly as hard to edit as TG. But you're right, there was less shadows in landscape than in portrait, even though the flash was bounced up in both cases. Huh.

aidkaid19 said...

ok - wait. maybe its because in my home studio, i am bouncing off WINDOWS behind me?

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